Frequently Asked Questions

Generally, this is what a salt system cell looks like in the Quebec market. The casing of the cell is made ​​of plastic and the interior of the cell consists of titanium plates. There are two companies that dominate the market. These companies are Hayward and Astral.

Cellule au sel


One of the most important things to remember when you own a salt water swimming pool is cleaning the cell. It must be cleaned with a cell cleaner. You will extend the life of your cell and avoid having to replace it after only a few years.

  1. First, add salt water swimming pool salt in the pool (between 3 kg and 4 kg per 1,000 L of water depending on the system).
  2. The salt water goes through the cell that contains the titanium blades. 
  3. Electrolysis is produced between the titanium blades from a weak electrical current sent from the control box.
  4. This electrolysis breaks the salt molecule (NaCl) in half. That is how chlorine is created. The Cl chemical formulation means Free Chlorine.
  5. Once the disinfection process is completed, the chlorine reverts back to salt.
  6. The salt therefore never runs out and does not evaporate. The only possible salt loss is when doing a backwash or when water splashes out of the pool.
Non-chlorinated shock treatment Chlorinated shock treatment
Eliminates combined chlorine (chloramines and odours). Eliminates algae.
Clarifies cloudy water. Clarifies cloudy water.
Tolerant to sun’s ultraviolet rays. Not tolerant to sun’s ultraviolet rays.
Bathing possible immediately after the treatment. Bathing possible 24 hours after the treatment.
Doesn’t affect the pH level. Increases the pH level.
For optimal effectiveness, a chlorine level between 1 and 3 ppm is required. Provides a reserve of chlorine.
Note: Non-chlorinated shock treatment (Oxy) is not a disinfectant. It is important to combine it with chlorine to ensure that the water is disinfected.
Non-chlorinated shock treatment Chlorinated shock treatment
When there is a strong chlorine smell. When the water is cloudy.
When experiencing burning eyes or itchy skin. After heavy rain.
During periods of heavy use or when it is very sunny. When there are algae in the pool or if your pool liner is slippery (beginning of algae growth).
Chlorine Concentration of 35%. Chlorine Concentration of 30%.
Granulated product that immediately releases chlorine. Slow dissolving tablet that slowly releases chlorine.
Perfect when you have time to take care of the spa. Perfect when you don’t have time to take of the spa.  E.g. at the cottage.
This product increases pH level. This product lowers pH level.
This product does not affect alkalinity. This product affects alkalinity.
Lithium’s efficiency depends on pH level. Bromine’s efficiency does not depend on pH level.
Produces chloramines (harmful). Does not produce chloramines.

In conclusion, both products are just as good. 
Essentially, these two products disinfect and oxidize contaminants.
It’s up to the consumer to choose which one he prefers.

If you are using lithium and want to change to bromine, there is no problem. You only have to stop using lithium and change to bromine. It's very simple.  

However, if you use bromine and you want to change to lithium, you must first completely drain your spa. Otherwise, the lithium you use will turn into bromine. Why? It’s simply a matter of chemistry.

Contrary to popular belief, a high chlorine level will not irritate the eyes. Only two factors are responsible for these irritations:

  • The presence of chloramines (combined chlorine)
  • An improperly adjusted pH level

The use of a non-chlorinated shock treatment will eliminate the chloramines. 
Since the pH of your eyes is 7.5, water with a pH different than the pH of your eyes will automatically irritate them. That is why it is so important to keep the pH level of your pool water between 7.2 and 7.8.

The sun’s ultraviolet rays do in fact eliminate the free chlorine in your pool water on hot sunny days.
The addition of stabilizer will help prevent the sun’s ultraviolet rays from destroying the free chlorine in your pool water.
It is important to keep the stabilizer level between 30 and 50 ppm. 
This product must be used only when granulated chlorine is used (calcium hypochlorite) or in pools with a salt chlorinator.

The sand in the filter should be cleaned once a year, at the beginning of the season or at the end of the season. Cleaning is done with a sand filter cleaner.
Using this product will extend the life of the sand in your filter and avoid potential filtration problems with your pool.


Cloudy water can be caused by various improperly adjusted parameters. Check the following points:

  • If the pH of your pool water is too high (above 7.8), lower it with pH-.
  • If the free chlorine level of your pool water is lower than 1 ppm, raise it to a maximum of 3 ppm.
  • If the sand in your pool filter hasn’t been cleaned in the last year, clean it with a sand filter cleaner.
  • If all of the above parameters are properly adjusted, add clarifier (sticks or liquid).

If algae start to grow, then your pool water quite likely lacked chlorine. To get rid of algae effectively, add chlorinated shock treatment and destructive algaecide. Wait three hours and then brush the walls and the bottom of the pool. Wait 12 hours and vacuum to pick up the dead algae from the bottom of the pool. Then do a backwash.
Note: A slippery pool liner is a sign that algae are beginning to grow.

  • If the pH of your pool is always too high, it’s probably because you are using chlorine with a high pH level (granulated chlorine). Adjust the pH by adding pH- to keep the pH level between 7.2 and 7.8.
  • If the pH of your pool is always too low, it’s probably because you are using chlorine with a low pH level (stabilized chlorinating pucks). Adjust the pH by adding pH+ to keep the pH level between 7.2 and 7.8.
  • If the pH fluctuates up or down and it is difficult to keep it between 7.2 and 7.8, make sure you check the alkalinity level of the pool water and keep it between 80 and 120 ppm.

It is recommended that chlorine be added at the end of the day once the sun has set and there are no more bathers in the pool.

If your pool has a chlorinator, you must use stabilized chlorinating pucks.
If your pool does not have a chlorinator, you may use granulated chlorine or chlorine pucks, both products are just as effective.

A starting kit is the easiest and most effective way to start up your pool at the beginning of the season. However, if your pool water is black or dark green, with a lot of leaves accumulated at the bottom, the addition of a destructive algaecide is recommended.